Just a post to let you know I'm alive, but I'm not a happy camper.

Day started well with a good breakfast and a decent run in Latvia and some of Lithuania.  God they are flat.  Doesn't seem too bad with all the greenery around, but I bet they are the most dismal places in February.

The last 50 miles or so in Lithuania was just chock-a-block with trucks, and of course they clump together, so overtaking on a two lane road becomes fun.  The landscape changed over the Polish border with more hills, well bumps really, but the traffic stayed bad.  When that eased a bit ( I don't know how or why) the road works started.

I rode for nearly 11 hours and 9 of that was in traffic or road works.  A highlight was Warsaw in the rush hour at 30C - the freedom of motorcycling.

To cap it all I got caught in a thundershower just a little ways from the hotel and got wet through.  I guess I'll just have to wear wet jeans tomorrow.

I'm going to be to sulk.

I decided it was easier just to skip breakfast.  I realised that it would mean getting there way too early, but if I waited for breakfast I'd worry about being on time, and not enjoy the breakfast anyway.

It was a lovely morning, so I decided I could forego the rainwear as it was 12C and getting warmer all the time.  I had a smooth run into Helsinki.  I'm not sure I saw a lot of it, but it looked interesting.  Some very solid Nordic dock buildings.  I guess it's been a trading centre for a long time.

I was, of course, way too early, one of the first there.  I just sat in the sun and ate my cereal bars.  I was one of the last on the boat.  When I parked up I asked the guy if he was going to tie it down.  "No need", he said.  I eyed the other bikes which the riders were finishing tieing down.  "I don't know why there doing that.  The sea's flat calm.  They won't move."  Against my better judgement I believed him.  True enough, there wasn't a tremor the whole voyage.  The sea was very calm, but the boat is huge, so I don't think it could move suddenly in any direction.  When I went back for the bike, either he or his boss had decided to play safe and there was a tie holding it against the stand.  I doubt if it was needed though.

It's a busy crossing and there are lots of sailings each day.  It wasn't just freight either, lots of people.  It passed well enough with some reasonable coffee.  It was 2:30pm before we were disgorged at Tallinn, and I still had 200 miles to go.

I didn't see much of Tallinn, but it too looked interesting.  I was impressed by how quickly I got out.  For once a traffic light system that was properly synchronised.  Once I got a green and kept to just under the speed limit I caught all the lights at green, must have been 7 or 8 of them.  Very impressive.

I put the satnav to "fastest time", so it chose the main road.  It was new, well surfaced, broad and a delight to ride on.  It was really just a 2-lane blacktop, but a good one.  Also, it was 22C, so I shed another layer.  It wasn't busy in the main, so it was just like riding a country road.  There were signs saying "Built with EU funds."  Latvia obviously didn't have their hand out quite so quickly as Estonia.  When I got to the border the road changed to a cart track.  And it was being worked on.  There were 7 or 8 looooooong sections of light controlled one way road works.  These lights were not synchronised and I only caught one at green.  22C is fine when the wind is blowing past.  When you are sat in traffic it is a wee bit warm.

Once we were past the road works the road was OK and I followed the locals' examples and cracked on a bit.  It was a very good run, but I was getting weary as I got into Riga.  It too would seem to need some general repair work.  While Estonia gives the overall impression of being well maintained and prosperous, Latvia seems a little down at heel.

When I got to the hotel they didn't have any knowledge of my booking.  Fortunately I had the confirmation email, and it was sorted out, but slowly - and I wanted my shower.  Very nice new hotel.

I nearly didn't take my camera when I went out for dinner, but I went back for it.  I started with a couple of snide shots showing the not so nice side, but as I walked into the old town that seemed very churlish.

Even this new building fits in well.

That's me for tonight.  I'm later than usual and I've still got to plan tomorrow, and I want to get to bed.  I get my hour back tomorrow, but I don't really need more time in the saddle.

Breakfast doesn't start on a Saturday or Sunday till 8am, so I was quite surprised when I wandered down at 7:30 and the place was buzzing.  Nice breakfast and reassured by the receptionist that it was going to be a dry day.  It was warmer than it had been, so I left off the rain jacket and trousers.  It's very nice to ride a bike when not suited up so heavily, and even better to do it when the weather is nice.  I filled up with petrol and headed off for a leisurely day.

Although I was following a main road I took the occasional detour just to see some more of the country.  They are also much quieter roads, so easier to have some fun on.   I thought a motorist who flashed me was taking exception to the exuberance of my progress, but I discovered that he was alerting me to the fact that the nondescipt van I was rapidly overhauling was in fact a Polis (Local spelling, here, as in Glasgow) van.  I reined myself in.

I've been wondering about speed cameras.  There are lots of them.  I tripped one in Germany and another one today.  (Very sudden, low speed limits, your honour.)  It looked to me though as if they would only photograph the front of the vehicle, which doesn't bother me at all.  I got stuck in traffic today beside a local biker, so I asked him.  He confirmed that "There's still something good in Finland.  They only photograph the front."  Strangely, I am still not tempted to ignore them.  I do keep very close to the limits, mostly.

One thing I forgot to mention yesterday was the amazing number of big, old American cars out and about.  Lots of muscle cars, but also a 50s Oldsmobile and a 90s Cadillac, plus some new Mustangs.  Must be a Swedish macho thing.  It seems to apply in Finland too, or maybe there are Swedes here on holiday with them.  It was funny seeing the local kids in Tornio last night.  In the UK it would be old Astras or Corsas being tarted up.  I saw two "dudes" cruising in a matt black painted Volvo 244 with a straight through exhaust.  I don't think there was any irony involved in the process.  I guess you make do with what you've got.

I stopped for my morning coffee at about 10 and was surprised to see the clock in the shop showing 11.  Different time zone innit?  I could have gone to bed an hour earlier last night.  I could have started earlier  etc etc.  I had been a bit surprised my sat nav gave such a late time for arriving at my destination.  Now I know why.  I'm making a habit of this.  I did the same thing in Alaska, only the hour was the other way round, and I couldn't work out why the roads were so quiet.

It was an uneventful day and I just cruised on.  However, you don't get this many lakes, with this much water in them without some serious rainfall.  There were some short, sharp showers that dropped a lot of water.  I didn't get it too bad, but there were a couple of places I came through where there had been SERIOUS downpours just shortly before by the looks of the roads.  I was keeping a wary eye on the sky, watching rainclouds gather and move.  Quite fascinating.  I rode out of it though and the last hundred or so miles were a delight.  It makes such a difference when the weather is good.

The place I'm staying at tonight had 50 Harley Davidsons here last week.  Tonight I think there is one family and me!  It's very nice and a lovely setting.  The only pictures I took today are of it.

I thought I was going to have a lazy start tomorrow as I've booked a ferry for 11:30am.  The small print says to be there at least 90 minutes before departure.  I can't take the chance, so I'll try to be there for around 10, but that means a bit of a dash at this end.  The landlady is fussing that I must have some breakfast, so they will open up early.  I'll need to put in an appearance.  Then I'll just jump on the bike and go.

Here's my hotel and its driveway.

2:30am and I was wide awake.  Some disturbance outside had wakened me.  It sounded like the start of a riot.  It came and went for some time.  Loud male voices and the usual shrill female support.  Sounded like rival football type chants at one point.  It eventually stopped, but I thought I would never get back to sleep, but I did.  When I asked the night receptionist about it she said she had heard nothing.  Obviously just my side of the hotel.  Yes, there's a night club there which let's out about 3 she told me, and the patrons get rather drunk.  So much for civilised Scandinavians.

Breakfast was fine and a good start for the day, which wasn't looking too promising.  I expected some early rain in the immediate area, so was hoping to get away from it quickly.  Temperature was 10.5C.  Ah well, on with the gear.  It doesn't matter how cold it is, once you start faffing about with layers and boots you end up in a hot sweat.  I'm getting used to the routine, though I doubt if the spectators in Sundsvall had seen it before.

There wasn't much choice of road.  It was either the main route or try to put together some small local roads, and I don't have time for that, though it would be much nicer.  They've created a very efficient through route, but unless you know where you are going it's almost impossible to see the villages etc.  It's a shame because the few that I caught a glimpse of seemed worth a look.  It seems quite populated with scattered houses and frequent hamlets.

The Swedes seem to believe in divided highways.  Most of the road was 3 lane with a barrier of metal posts and three strands of cable separating it alternately 2 lanes one way, 1 the other.  It was only when I came to a piece of road without all this furniture that I realised how intrusive it is.  Without it the road looks almost part of the landscape, at least not too much at odds with it.  Where the barriers are the road seems much more industrial and aggressive, out of keeping with its surroundings.

I was surprised how busy the road was in parts.  I think it was around holiday destinations.  It was the usual culprits causing mayhem - campers, caravans and horse boxes.  At least on a big bike overtaking opportunities increase.

The scenery is just what Wallander etc leads us to believe.  The Swedes seem desperate to make the most of the summer and force themselves to do things outdoors.  There's a great vibrancy and freshness when the sun shines as if everything is emerging from months of gloom, as it probably is.  Everywhere is a riot of colour.

The sun did shine today, and it was so nice to see it.  The temperature got up to 17C.  I almost took my rain jacket off, but discretion prevailed.

I'm staying in Tornio tonight which is the Finnish half of a twin city.  It felt just like a frontier town when I arrived.  I don't know what it is specifically about it, but that's the atmosphere.  Poor, run down, little hope.

The hotel is OK and they did a lovely sirloin - meal of the trip I think.  Partly because I had such low expectations of it.

A few photos.  The first three are of a little village I came across.  I can only think that they are holiday homes (shacks) for the workers.  They are obviously very old and tiny.

One of only a couple of interesting building in Tornio

As far as I can make out, this is the new town centre.

The other interesting building.

The sun is still shining.  I'm going out to look at it.

There was sunshine when I got up, and large patches of blue sky.  It was still only 12C though.

The hotel hadn't impressed me with its catering, so I was pleased I hadn't booked breakfast.  I just made my excuses and left and was on the road for 7.  It was really pleasant to be riding on smaller roads in nice weather.  That's really all I did all day.  The scenery changed and I admired it; I had coffee; it changed again; I admired it again etc.

I stopped for lunch at a small town and found myself quite fortuitously beside a restaurant.  The car park was teeming with tradesmen.  When I went in it seemed I had found a working man's lunch kitchen.  Very basic, very quick, very cheap, and pretty good.  I was in one a bit like it in Portugal once.  It made a change.

I took a couple of photos of the lupins, but there is no way of conveying how often they appear or how huge some of the areas of them are.  Google it and you'll see some better images.

I was a bit surprised when I arrived at Sundsvall.  Despite being pretty far north and in the wilds, it is quite a large industrial town, the birthplace of Swedish industry according to some.  It's certainly thriving with masses of new building.  There's some pictures of the town after the lupins.

 My lunch stop.

Unfortunately this was the view behind me.

Someone thought it would be a good idea to put this concrete pile next to a neo-classical
 building.  It's not only in the UK that planners have been idiots.

And I finished my day with a traditional Swedish meal - Chicken Korma.  Very good it was too.

This hotel is nice, and breakfast is included, so I'll have that before I start off tomorrow.  I have a hotel booked just over the Finnish border, so I don't need to rush.  I shall try to leisurely roll up the coast and take some more pictures.  Forecast is rain though, so maybe I won't.

Breakfast was just as good as dinner.  A very good spread with lots of variety to choose from, and all very well prepared.  Quite a lot of salt in the scrambled eggs too.

One thing I didn't mention yesterday was the nail in the tyre.  I just discovered it as I parked up for the day and I had no idea whether it was a problem or not.  I remember on my very first bike trip to France, seeing a nail head on the tyre.  I very gingerly made my way home, only to discover it was just that, a nail head, no point at all.  This was definitely more than that because I could see it was embedded, but I had no idea how deep.

Fortuitously, there is a Triumph dealer about 5 miles from the bridge to Sweden, so I called in there and they pulled out a half inch of nail, which had been in sideways, so had not pierced the tyre.  End of drama.

The trip to Sweden was good.  The weather was improving, though never warm.  It was calm, so quite serene going over the bridges.  They really are very impressive, and just so normal, so it was a bit anticlimactic going over oceans.

First impressions of Sweden were of a tidy, well cared for place, with very rule obeying people.  For the first hour or so the country was really flat, not very attractive at all.  It got better though.  The roads are fairly quiet and I have accidentally found some fabulous biking roads.  The good thing about missing a turn with the satnav set to "shortest route" is that it will find some tiny roads to get you back on route.

One of the most striking things was the abundance of lupins.  They are everywhere, even more commonplace than our daffodils.  I will try to get a picture.

I'm staying the night in Jonkoping which is quite a fair-sized place.  It's attractive in places, but not really overall.  It's the only place I've taken pictures of today I'm afraid, so here they are.

Couldn't get it all in, so here's the top:

It's not as if it was bombed during the war, so they didn't need to do this.  I guess the chose to.

It's quite a mish-mash of some really nice old buildings, like this one, and mainly new uninspiring ones.  Also, I think Sweden is poorer than we give it credit for, or has more poor people than we would expect.  That influences the place.  e,g, most of the restaurants were pretty fast foody.

Anyway, I had some ribs, so I'm happy.  I'll finish this and read for a bit before bed.  I intend to make an early start and have breakfast on the road.

The day dawned grey and overcast, with a smirr in the air.  It was 11.5C .  I hoped it would warm up during the day and it sort of did.  I think it got up to 14, but then the rain brought it back down to 11 again.  Cheerful Danes told me that after another couple of days of rain it will be warm again.  My concern is that by then I will have followed the cold and wet.  Still, the forecast isn't awful.  As long as it doesn't get any worse I'll cope.  The trouble is I didn't bring any winter stuff, so I'm doubling up.

Anyway, it was lovely to get off motorways and on to some quiet roads.  One of the problems with motorways is that the mass of big vehicles creates a lot of turbulence, which can be quite unpleasant.  So next time you see a motorcyclist hammering past you, he may not be being aggressive.  He's just looking for some clear air.

I was in country all day, just skirting one big town.  An awful lot of it is flat, but it is still nice.  Very green too, which may give a hint about the weather here.  I rode about 300 miles today, and it was all through farming country.  Not poor farming either.  Everywhere was very well kept and pretty affluent looking.  There was an almost permanent smell of manure in the air.

I had a panic when I was thinking about my blog on the bike as I realised that I had not brought anything which would transfer pictures from my camera to my laptop.  A wee while later as I entered the only town of any size today, I saw a Media Mart and was able to stop and pick up a card reader for 8 Euros.  Serendipity, or what.

It was quite a long day as you don't make quick progress with the satnav set to "avoid motorways".  The trouble is that setting is just on or off.  There is no "use a wee bit of motorway if it saves miles of detour" setting.  I bet there are lots of extra miles traveled needlessly, just to avoid a couple of miles of motorway.  Maybe the shortest distance setting is the one to try.

I was surprised to find a British war cemetery shortly after I started out.  Nearly a thousand graves, and 70% of them airmen.  I was not far from Bremen, so I guess a lot of crashed bomber crews ended up there.

 The first ferry I was on was quite tiny and only took a couple of minutes to cross the river,

The next was a lot bigger and had to cross the Elbe.

This was a cargo ship coming upstream.

The bridge which leads to Middelfart.

Nice houses.

 Programming the satnav can be a challenge.

View from my bedroom window.

I ate well tonight with some nice lamb.  The potatoes were as nice as I have had for years, just boiled.  The other veg was lovely, and there was a delicious carrot souffle on the plate too.  The only problem is that the Danes seem to have a penchant for salt.  Potatoes, lamb, courgettes, all crusted with it.  There was a welcome sweet in my room, and I swear there was salt in that too.

It's given me a thirst, so I am going down to get one of the Creme Brulee Magnums I noticed on my way in.  Then I'll have an early night... again.  Oh, it's started raining, heavily.  Maybe that will get it out of the way for tomorrow.