Leaving Alaska

Took a couple more pictures of the lake beside the motel in Wasilla.  Fewer clouds and a bit clearer today.

I also took one of the hotel I booked into in Anchorage to spend the next day waiting on a plane.

I'm off to Florida this evening.  I will be leaving Alaska having seen very little of it, and some of that in pouring rain and mist.  Still, it means that Irene and I can come and "do" Alaska and it won't be as if I was coming to somewhere I know.  Time to reflect on the trip.  I've got all day to do this, so I am going to jot down my thoughts on the various aspects of the journey as they occur to me.  They may therefore seem a bit disjointed.  Apologies in advance for that.  Also, they are probably of interest mainly, if at all, to motorcyclists.

There aren't many places that you can ride from A to B for more than 6,000 miles through such varied and magnificent scenery, on fine roads (mainly) with little traffic, and with good facilities available along the whole route.  It was a fantastic motorcycle ride.  It's too early to say if I would do anything like it again.  I doubt it, but you never know.  Certainly a jaunt down to Italy seems very manageable by comparison.

North America is an amazing place to travel through by road.  I am not so sure that for long distances in the US the bike is the best way.  Distances can be so huge that they are daunting or boring on a bike.  I worked at Ford on the production line for a couple of summers, so I had early training in carrying out mindless tasks for a long time.  Not everyone is so fortunate.  The guy at the dealership in Lubbock, Texas was surprised that I didn't have cruise control on the bike.  That says it all for me about riding in that part of the US.  Cruise control on a bike would be unthinkable in Europe.  It is just not what they are about.  Canada did not have these issues as the roads are more scenic and varied all the way, on my route anyway.  I am sure in the plains of Alberta the same issues arise.  There are of course lots of areas in the US where the roads are great for bikes, but the vast distances between these areas are the problem.

Another factor against long distance motorcycling in the US is the weather.  I got rained on lots, but I was lucky.  It could have been a lot worse.  The humid heat of the south is awful to ride in for a long time, especially if you are sensible and wear suitable riding gear i.e. full protection.  The drier plains of Texas and Arizona were not so uncomfortable, even though they were hotter.  There though the risk, at least at this time of year, of thundestorms, high winds, hail and tornadoes makes it potentially perilous.  It would be really scary to get caught in one of these.  From Salt Lake City northwards, the weather is more temperate and manageable.  Maybe it is just what I am used to.

Rain gear was probably the most important thing for the trip.  My textile jacket and trousers is allegedly waterproof.  I think it does work, but like most of them it uses a membrane underneath the top layer of fabric to keep the water out.  The result is that you stay dry, but the top layer of fabric soaks up moisture, becomes heavy and cold, and you are miserable as sin.  Also, in a hot day the membrane acts like a "boil in the bag" cooking apparatus.  I wish someone would make a non-waterproof textile suit.  I much prefer to keep the rain off the surface of the suit.  I wear Flexothane jacket and over-trousers.  They are brillliant and keep all the water off, so I was never once wet inside them, even in the downpours I went through.  They are also good on cold days for keeping the wind off and so keeping up body heat.  On hot days, they too act as "boil in the bag" but you don't need to put them on then.  The same principle applies to gloves.  Even if your hands are dry, if the outside of the glove is wet, heavy and cold, you have a problem. I have a pair of waterproof overmitts which are just fine.  I had three different pairs of gloves with me - cold weather, medium and hot.  I used them all.  I also had a thin pair of liner gloves which I used when it was really cold.  Boots are the most vulnerable. The V-Star seemed to keep my feet lower than most bikes, so I suffered greatly from road spray on my feet and shins.  I tried to keep my feet up on the highway pegs or hanging from the rear footrests, but I couldn't do that all the time.  I have BMW GoreTex boots and they have been great.  There were a couple of times they felt damp when I took them off, but not many, and that could have been from sweat.

My textile jacket and trousers have shoulder, elbow, knee, shin and hip pads built in, so that was what I chose to wear mainly.  When it was hot - from Florida to New Mexico I think - I wore Draggin' Jeans instead of the textile trousers.  They don't have pads for impact protection, but they are Kevlar lined for abrasion protection.  I never rode without gloves or a full face helmet.  My helmet has a secondary visor of darkened perspex which removes the need for sunglasses.  It is really good, and unlike sunspecs you can put it up or down on the move.

The bike.  My bike of preference for such a trip would be my V-Strom.  I have it set up for me the way I like it; it is fast; it is comfortable; and it is economical.  I chose to get a cruiser to do the trip as it seems right to do it on a bike that owes more to the US motorcylce heritage.  I had a cruiser before - Moto Guzzi California - and loved it, sometimes.  At the risk of offending some people, I think Harleys are overrated and overpriced, though I do believe the big ones are ideal for the long distance highway rides.  So, of the avialable options left I chose the V-Star as the most attractive/suitable combination I could see, though I think a Honda would have been just as good.  I didn't like the Suzuki or Kawasaki offerings.  The V-Star was surprisingly capable.  It has just about enough power for a bike its size, and certainly wasn't slow to respond when I wanted it to.  Gas mileage seemed to vary a lot, depending on how hard it was being ridden and, I think, the quality of the gas I put in.   I would guesstimate that I got mid-40s per US Gallon, which I think is very good.

It was surprisingly comfortable.  I had brought a gel seat pad with me, and am glad I did.  I did some long days and didn't once get off feeling I could do no more.  Risers or bars with more pull-back would have enhanced the comfort enormously.  I did get a pretty sore back at times.

It is the first belt drive bike I have had and I was impressed.  I hate having to remember to oil the chain.  I may even look into a belt drive conversion for the Bonneville when I get home.  I know that there is one on the market.

So, the bike was comfortable enough, economical and performed all right.  It still didn't do a lot for me.  There was no real feeling of affection for it and I realised afterwards that I had walked away from the dealers where I sold it without a backward glance.  I couldn't do that with the Bonneville or the V-Strom.  I guess I just found it a bit soulless, with nothing that particularly endeared it to me.  I'm still looking for the perfect bike.  Now if Suzuki brought out a shaft drive replacement for the V-Strom, that would come close, but I like the Bonneville a lot.  I have handlebar risers for it waiting for me in Florida, which will make it even better.

Just had a break and went out for a walk.  I stopped to buy some cigarettes.  They are very strict about tobacco in Alaska and the assistant even asked the guy in front of me, who looked about 30, for his date of birth.  She didn't ask for mine.  When I jokingly complained, she asked.  She expressed apparently genuine surprise at 1949 and said she would have guessed 1962!  It doesn't matter if she was sincere or not, it made my day.

I think the last thing to comment on is doing the trip on my own.  I had no option.  I don't know anyone else who would want to do it, apart from Graham, who can't.  It is much harder doing it yourself.  Any difficulties are magnified as you can't discuss them and put them into context.  Likewise any joys are diminished as you can't share them.  Evenings are long as you can only ride for so long without having done enough.  The blog was a useful discipline and I enjoyed doing it.  I read Andrew Marr's book, which I would thoroughly recommend.  It is a really good perspective on a period of history which is familiar to us all.  I also started on William James's The Varieties of Religious Experience.   It must be one of the most travelled books in history as I have taken it on many trips and never got beyond the introduction.  It is actually very interesting.  It is also a delight to read.  He wrote it in 1902 and it is so nice to read the formal and very precise prose.

Apart from that I went out to eat.  That is not as easy as it sounds.  Most US towns have abandoned their centres, except those that are trying to recreate them.  Everything is spread along highways that sort of circle what could be called a town.  You need transport to visit anything.  After a day on the bike I didn't usually want to ride anywhere, so I was limited to what I could get to.  This was less the case in Canada where they tended to be smaller more focussed communities.  It doesn't sound a big thing, but it is.  Stopping for the evening in a little French town and wandering round it is a lovely way to finish a day on the road.  US towns are far more functional, and a functionality based on car use, so they are not pleasant to wander round, if it is possible at all.  But that is just the way it is.  It is not meant to be a criticism, just an observation.  The way of life is different, and totally hydrocarbon dependent.

I loved the trip and am very glad I did it, if only to get it out of my system.  The major challenge was the weather.  The roads, accommodation, food, gas (I still had an unused gallon of Florida gas in my saddlebag when I gave the bike to the dealer, but I wouldn't do a trip like that without carrying it.) all worked fine.  The biggest potential road challenge was the Alcan, and, IN THE WEATHER I DID IT IN, it was not a problem.  Any motorcyclist who can comfortably ride more than 200 miles in a day could do the trip I did.  I hope some of you try it.

That is the end of the blog - until I decide to do another ride somewhere.  Thanks for looking.  Hope it gave you some pleasure, amusement and ideas.

Richard, Anchorage, Alaska 14:00, June 10th, 2010.

No Blog Today

Sorry.  I am killing time in Anchorage where I have to wait over another night to get a plane to Florida.  Can't get myself in the mood to post.

Day 18 - A' Done

A lovely, clear day, so I made an early start and was on the road by 6.  The first 100 miles or so were just lovely.   Nice, slightly twisty roads, good temperature, nice scenery.  There had been some rain, as the roadside was wet, but the carriageway wasn't, and, as usual there was virtually no other traffic.  I did discover another reason for motorists flashing though.  Moose on the road.

As I neared the first petrol stop though the sky turned as you can see.

and this is one of the trucks to avoid

The next 100 miles or so was awful.  It was through Denali, so the road was quite high.  There was mist and quite heavy rain.  I kept looking ahead for a glimmer of sunlight, but just nothing.  I missed all the lovely views there must have been.  So the last day had one of the best and one of the worst 100 miles!  Mike asked if the weather forecasting was any more accurate here than in the UK.  Well, the forecast for today in Denali was for occasional, light showers.  Draw your own conclusions.

I had looked up the main Yamaha dealers in the Anchorage area.  The first one I stopped at in Big Lake wouldn't buy the bike.  The second, in Wasilla, was very helpful and went through the Blue Book etc on his computer and apologetically told me we would be looking at around $5,300, subject to his boss's confirmation.  That was way over what I expected.  He called the guy in the Anchorage dealership and said he was of the same mind.  Since it would be easier to get to the airport from the city I took off for Anchorage.

Anchorage looks like an interesting place and I was looking forward to exploring it.  When I got to the dealers he said he had more than enough used bikes, it was nearly the end of the season, but if I really wanted rid of it he would give me $4,000.  Well, this morning I would probably have snatched his hand off, but Wasilla looked better, so I got back on my bike to go back the 40 odd miles.

As I rode I realised that the guy in Wasilla had just given me a system answer.  The guy in Anchorage had thought of it as a business proposition.  The likelihood was that when the Wasilla guy spoke to his boss he would get the same answer as I had in Anchorage.  As long as it wasn't less than $4k, or else I would have to get back on my bike and go 40 odd miles back to Anchorage.  Sure enough, his boss had been less than enthusiastic, but would go to $4,300.  It is less than the bike is worth by far, but to be honest I had always reckoned there was a strong possibility I would drop a bundle on it.  When Graham and I first discussed it we reckoned it could be about $3K.  In the event it was $2.7K.  That is cheaper than renting a Harley for three weeks, and you can't do one way rentals.  So, it is within expectations, if not hopes.  That's my rationalisation and I will live with it.

I booked into the Best Western just up the road.  I am getting used to asking for senior's rate now.  The more expensive a hotel you stay in, the more you save!  It has a nice lakeside location and nice views

Here is my room-mate for the night

I've done 6,342 miles in 18 days.  The end has been a bit of an anti-climax as I've got other things on my mind.  I'll think through the trip and when I am, hopefully, sitting in an airport lounge tomorrow I can put some thoughts together on it.  In the meantime I need to try and organise a flight.

Addendum

Well no one told me that Alaska is in its own time zone.  It was only when I queried the time on my fancy new cell phone that the receptionist informed me we are on Alaska time.  No wonder the road was quiet when I left this morning.  I am no longer so surprised that it is a lovely evening outside and 72F.  That makes it easier to get an early start tomorrow!

Day 17

Well Tok got its wish.  It seemed to rain all night, and it was still raining this morning.  Out with the rain gear again.  I am just thankful that I did almost all of the Alcan in the dry.  Just a bit out of town I passed the site of the fire.  It had reached right to the edge of the road.  I believe the highway was actually closed for a time.  The smell of woodsmoke hung very heavily in the air.

I rode the first 80 miles or so in rain.  It wasn't too heavy and it wasn't cold, well most of the time anyway.  At one point it did start to feel cold, and as I went over a bridge, with a dry riverbed, but loads of broken ice floes, I realised why.  The road was empty so spray was not an issue.  I didn't see more than a handful of cars before I reached Delta Junction, the end of the Alaska Highway.

It had stopped raining about 15 miles beforehand, so it was nice to dry out.  The next hundred or so to Fairbanks were in the dry and I took a couple of pictures of the landscape.

There is a large air force base on the way and the runway runs parallel with the road.  As I reached it there were a couple of jets readying for take off, so I raced them as they took off one after the other.  I lost.  You don't get many places this flat.

I was at the perimeter fence taking this and I was a bit concerned that security would jump on me.

Fairbanks was a bit of a disappointment.  What was downtown seems to have just disappeared and the town has sprawled out along several highways.  No charm or attractiveness at all.  I found a Super 8 and when she told me the price I asked if there wasn't a senior rate, and saved myself 10%.  No pride left.

I needed to stop early to try and sort stuff out.  My cousin in Florida, whom I'd stayed with before leaving, died unexpectedly this morning.  She had been seriously ill with cancer, but it was being contained.  As often the case, it was other complications which brought the end.  She and her husband were a significant part of my life and my family's.  I am very saddened by her death, but also relieved that she did not go through a longer period of pain.

I have no service on my mobile phone here, so had to buy a cell phone.  The first two had faulty SIM cards (any idea how long it takes to work that out), so they said they would set up the third ( a diffferent brand!).  After waiting for nearly an hour while they got round to it and then struggled with their allegedly faulty phone system I gave up and took it as it was and set it up in 10 minutes on the internet.  I am not proud of having lost my temper and sworn at a shop assistant, but I did apologise.

Craigslist continues to defeat me.  It is all system driven with lots of detectors for potential scams.  I fell foul of that by trying to post from out of state, so it won't publish my posts.  I set up a new account, but it doesn't publish from that either, presumably because I am using the same IP address and the advert is similar.  I seldom acknowledge defeat, but Craigslist has me beat.  The trouble is it actually matters now.  I want to get on a plane almost as soon as I get to Anchorage.  So, any bright ideas on how you sell a bike in a strange town will be welcome.  My first call will be the local Yamaha dealer and see if he will buy it.  I'll take what I can get for it.

I've got 360 miles to do tomorrow and I want to arrive at a time when I can make a start on shifting the bike, so I will make an early start.

As all good 12 step programmes say:  "This too shall pass."

Day 16

A beautiful clear blue sky greeted me this morning.  I expected it to be chilly though, so dressed up accordingly.  The road was good, though not always as wide as it had been.  It was not so straight (good) and in some areas the surface was uneven and bumpy (not so good).  It was still a good rideable road and very enjoyable to be on.

The last photo was taken at Haines Junction.  Since it looked like I was headed in to some mist I added my waterproof jacket to help keep the wind out, and the thin pair of inner gloves.  I'm glad I did as it was decidedly cool through these hills.  I stopped for breakfast just before 11 at Burwash Landing.  A guy I met said he had come down from Tok and it had been pouring most of the way.

After that the road deteriorated a lot.  It obviously hasn't been upgraded as recently as the rest of it.  Much twistier and a lot of bad surface.  There were ruts, holes and general crappy bits.  It was still OK to ride on if you took  care.  It didn't help that it was now raining and I was perhaps not being as cautious as I should have been.  I also had another couple of long stretches of gravel.  So, plenty to keep me on my toes.  For some reason I thought it would change when I reached the border, but no, the gravel on the Canadian side continued on the US side in a display of International Co-operation.  They do it differently in the US though (therre's a surprise).  Instead of laying fresh gravel, they just leave the dirt.  It is actually easier to ride on, in the dry at least.  Add mud to the list of things that motorcycles don't like riding over, along with animal manure and wet leaves, not to mention roadkill.

For once the Immigration Officer, was pleasant, cheerful and friendly.  I now have a special Alcan, AK stamp in my passport.  So, 40 years since I first arrived in the US I have visited all 50 states.  A full set.  I can start collecting something else now.

The topography had changed after Burwash Landing too.  The land got much wetter, with lots of large lakes.  It also got much bleaker, with stunted trees in marshy ground.  I didn't take any pictures because of the rain, but the landscape continued into Alaska and here is one taken just over the border.

The rain had stopped before I got to the border, so I decided to keep going to Tok, which is the first sizeable (!) place on the road.  I could see where it had rained earlier.  The road was really wet and although it wasn't actually raining it might as well have been with all the spray being thrown up.  Here are some pictures of Tok.

and my motel

the road to Anchorage

and the road to Fairbanks

The receptionist was telling me that they didn't have rain actually in Tok today, though they desperately need it.  There is a wildfire which has been burning for some time on the way to Fairbanks, and the rain is what they need to dampen it.  There have been spots all evening, but it hasn't come to anything yet.

I am now worrying about selling the bike.  I had planned to advertise it on Craigslist.  They don't accept out of state adverts.  Now that I am in-state it is still not accepted because the IP address I am using in Tok is showing up as being in Wichita, Kansas.  "Wait 48 hours and log on using an Anchorage IP address" I am told.  How do I know it won't come up as a Jamaica IP address?  I had hoped to have the ad running before I arrived, so that if there is any interest I could deal with it quickly.  Two people even offered to post for me, but when I actually sent them the ad they didn't.  Where is help when you need it?

Anyway, Delta Junction and the offical end of the Alaska Highway tomorrow, then Fairbanks.  Anchorage on Tuesday.

Day 15

It was a bright and sunny morning, but cold.  I put on my long johns, long socks, jumper and zipped my jacket to my trousers.  This kept me nice and cozy, but ,of course, it means you generate a lot of heat with only a little effort and there is always a little effort getting the bike ready, filling with gas etc.  I feared I was going to be too warm, but it was OK once the wind had got to me a bit.  I was quite early on the road and was only going to Whitehorse, just under 300 miles, so I was in no hurry.  The turtles were still asleep and the road was absolutely empty.  I saw a bear just outside town, but he said he was in a hurry so I didn’t stop.

The road is just great.  I had heard all these horror stories about the state of it, and the dozens of trucks that give you a hard time.  There aren’t many trucks at all.  Most of the road is in good shape.  There is plenty of evidence of new asphalt in pot holes, and where it has not been repaired, or there is a frost heave, or gravel break, there are cones to mark the hazard, so you can see it in plenty of time - if you pay attention.  I was trying to dawdle at about 60mph, but the speed would just creep up, because it is such easy riding.

The country is much more open than I had expected, no towering mountains and granite cliffs.  Still lovely though.  I was going to stop at Swift River for petrol.  Closed.  That is not the first business I have seen closed, so despite the high prices it must be hard to turn a profit.  A very short season I suspect.  I knew there were few petrol stations on this stretch of the road, but I was surprised that the next one was at Teslin, more than 50 miles away.  I knew I didn't really have a problem with the spare can in the saddlebag, but the idea of running out of petrol is unnerving.  Fortunately I have been stopping at about 110 miles, so there is always a lot left in the tank.  This is the view as you approach Teslin.

The bridge is a metal grate surface and you can hear the noise from it for miles.  These metal grates are the source of other horror stories.

For non-motorcyclists, bikes aren't good on (in order of badness) diesel spills, gravel, wet metal, like manhole covers, and wet white lines.  Diesel is the worst because you don't see it.  You might smell it just before your tyre loses grip.  The metal grate wasn't wet today, but it is peculiar anyway because your tyres try to follow all the different ridges in the surface.  It feels like you are being dragged all over the place.  Normal procedure on a bike when faced with a difficulty like this is drop a gear, relax, and go for it.

Over the bridge was a nice cafe and petrol station where I had a late breakfast.  Not yet 11 o'clock and I was more than half way to Whitehorse.

Just some more road pics on the way there.  That last one could be any one of a number of lochsides in Scotland.  If you were suddenly plonked down on any spot on the Alaska Highway, you would think it was splendid, but not necessarily more splendid than lots of other places.  Likewise there are other better motorcycle roads.  The road from Santander through the Picos Mountains into Spain's interior is far more challenging as far as bends and road condition is concerned.  But it is only about 80 miles long.  The thing about this is that it is 1,400 miles long!  It is one continuous stream of nature's beauty, man's ingenuity and perseverance, and almost desolation.  You would have to drive from Glasgow to Oban and back about 7 times to cover this distance, and even that road is more densely populated than this.  It is simply an amazing journey.

It got a bit more amazing when I arrived at a 5 mile stretch of gravel road.  I guess it is under repair and there was no one there because it is a Saturday, but there were no signs of any construction work - just warning cones and the tarmac changed to gravel.  It is like riding on ball bearings, absolutely dreadful.  The worst part though was the dust.  Any oncoming vehicle (there weren't many fortunately) swept a huge cloud of dust behind it.  Anyway, only 5 miles and the rest of the road was fine.

Into Whitehorse, capital of the Yukon with 24,000 inhabitants.  A nice little town, proud of itself, with self-confidence and self-respect.  A lot of outdoor sports shops, so I suspect it is busy in summer with lots of sporty outdoorsy types.  Even the buses have racks on the front for carrying bikes.  (Though, if you've got a bike, why would you get on a bus?)

I found a relatively cheap motel - cheaper than last night anyway.  The first thing I did was go to the Dollar store and buy a sponge and shampoo to clean the bike.  That dust was the last straw.  I'd almost forgotten there was chrome on it, it is so long since I have seen it shine.  It is not perfect, but a vast improvement.  I looked for some saddle soap to tart up the leather (fake?) saddlebags, but in the end had to settle for Mink Oil.  Great stuff.  Makes them look like new.  I used it on my boots too and they have come up a treat.

I went to a fancy restaurant - tablecloths, cloth napkins -  and had a T-bone Bison steak.  Very nice it was too.  It is still a beautiful evening and the forecast is good for tomorrow, though there could be some showers as I go further north.  300 miles to the border.  I haven't decided where I will stay, probably not too far over.  At Graham's suggestion I will then head for Fairbanks and take the longer way down to Anchorage, passing Denali National Park.  But that is for another day.  Mustn't get ahead of myself.

Day 14

I'd gone to bed early last night, and misread my watch when I woke, so I am ready to go fairly early.  It is overcast, but dry.  All the forecasts say dry.  So, I foresake my raingear, zip in my liners and prepare to head off.  For the first 50 miles or so the road is the same as it has been since Dawson Creek.  Here are more pics of it.

It reminds me of Speyside.  It is lush and green with a mix of arable and cattle farming.  The hills are not rugged like the West Coast ones, but green and fairly gentle.  There are a lot of trees, but not really dense.

It was cool, but not cold.  I think tomorrow it will be long johns and jumper as well as the liners, just to be sure.  I finally tried using my MP3 player when I am riding.  I was surprised how well it worked.  I did not need the volume any louder than normal.  It is quite interesting how your riding style changes from Transcendental Blues to Buckskin Stallion.  I'd made a playlist of road-type music and it was a delight when City of New Orleans came on, that wonderful homage to travelling in America.  I'm not sure I need the music though.  I don't mind the hours of nothing.  
“Your true traveller finds boredom rather agreeable than painful. It is the symbol of his liberty-his excessive freedom. He accepts his boredom, when it comes, not merely philosophically, but almost with pleasure.”  Aldous Huxley
That may be overstating it, but you get the drift.

After 50 miles the country changes and it is more rocky and steep.  I am now climbing to the highest point on the highway at 4,250 feet.  The terrain still looks Scottish.  Although the elevation is much greater, the relative difference in height between the road and the tops of the hills is about the same, so it looks the same, just higher up.   The road is obviously more difficult for the road builders here.  It is much narrower.  Also, no doubt because of more severe weather, the surface is more damaged.  Having said that it is no worse than a UK B road, and the surface isn’t as bad as some at the moment after the winter we had.

After about 100 miles of this it is back to the much more open countryside.  Big rolling hills and huge horizons.

The road is much wider again, and it is cleared well away from the side of the road, so there is plenty of warning of any animals about to cross.  I haven't seen much wildlife.  A few Caribou type beasts and a Bison getting his picture taken in a car park is about all.

I’d been told to be on guard for the behaviour of Turtles.  Sure enough, one just stopped in front of me, so that he could take a picture.  And here am I carefully looking for pull-offs before I get my camera out.  That wasn’t as bad as the next guy though.  I was on a long straight and indicated before pulling into the southbound lane to overtake.  I was about 50 feet from him when he too moved into the southbound lane.  He then indicated, and pulled into a pull-off.  I am only grateful I was not alongside when he started because he would have had me off the bike.  I am sure he didn’t know I was there.
Again I had my 300 miles done fairly early and was swithering about carrying on.  I decided though that leaving manageable chunks for each day is sensible, and it is important to be fairly sure that there is accommodation at your intended stopping point.  Having said that I began to worry about what would be at Watson Lake.  It only has a population of some 1,500 and Fort Nelson, which has a population of 5,000, had very little.  I needn't have worried though.  It is a busy little community, and obviously a centre for whatever is around it.  It even has a department store:

  and a church

and the most amazing collection of road signs I have ever seen, but I don't think I've seen that many.

I don't think I have ever paid $120 for a hotel room before.  The $2 internet charge was the kicker.  It's a nice room though.  But see yesterday's comments about what I need from a room.  Here is the hotel.

I have been pleasantly surprised by the quality of the highway so far.  Of the 600 miles travelled, only about 100 was less than great, and even that wasn't too bad.  Certainly not as bad as some of the roads I've been on in Spain.  It is a remarkable road through truly awesome country.  It has obviously been much improved in recent years.  You can see bits of the original road winding beside the new one.  Tiny in comparison.  There is obviously a long way to go, so things could change for the worse, but I am hopeful that since I have passed the highest point, it won't get too much worse.

If you click the Sitemeter button at the bottom of the page you can see various stats about visits to the blog.  I was amazed that it was visited 60 times yesterday, by people from all over.  I have also received some nice emails, so thanks for these.  I hope the blog continues to entertain and perhaps inform you.